The sun set over the hindu kush and softened the dusty sky into hues of pastels. The sun was low enough in the sky that it was a distinct fierce red-orange flaming ball racing for the jagged mountain range. I raced up the ladder to the top of the water tower one handed, holding a pile of cat-5 cables and a linksys router in my left hand. All Afghans were keeping one eye on the sun and were licking their dry, parched lips. We wanted to reprogram the router and get back to the roof top at SR’s house before iftar, the evening meal which breaks the ramadan fast.

Step, step, awkward let-go-and-grab-the-next-rail, step, step, let-go-and-grab, step, step… cripes this is a tall tower. The ladder is steep and I have to climb slightly askew, turned to a side so my knees and shins don’t crash in to the rungs.

Finally at the top of the tower I find Keith, Talwar, and H sitting at the very top surrounded by a forest of bigger FabFis. The big ones make it difficult to walk around on the ledge so most have been banished to the very top of the tower. Talwar looks like a kitten suddenly caught in mid-play in a tangle of a large amount of blue ethernet cable.

“This … FF24 … “, I somewhat say between breaths of air - now that I’m not rowing I’m pathetically out of shape. “… has old .bin. Needs new FF2.0 <gasp>…. must… <gasp> <gasp> before iftar… <gasp>”.

Keith nods. “Yeah, I understand. Sundown soon… say no more.” and takes the router from me and starts to look around for a short net cable. I pathetically manage to hand him a cable I brought for this purpose, then sit down cross legged and start repairing the longer cable I brought up. It’s a little funny that the best IT / net / computer tech support equipment in Jbad is at the top of the tower.

I just manage to line up the multicolored cable in the correct order when Keith starts yelling - “Amy! Amy! AmyAmyAmy! H JUST CAUGHT A KITE!”

What? Did he say “caught a kite?” I try to figure out what that might rhyme with, what he must have meant. But by then my head has turned all the way around and indeed H is standing 5 stories up on the top of a concrete water tower flying a simple diamond-shaped red kite. From my perspective he is a silhouette, standing in front of an red-orange sun and the thin paper of the kite is backlit. It’s a boy in salwar kameez lunging and tugging and gesturing at his kite with the entirety of Jalalabad at his feet and the tall mountains anchoring the pastel layered sky. The moment is out of a movie and it is spellbinding.

And I’m here in the scene. I feel the cooling breeze in the rapidly darkening sky and hear the toots of the rickshaws and barks and yells and general traffic and people far below. H hands me the kite string carefully. It’s like fishing line, thin and slippery. There’s a lot of it but the end of it is frayed so it definitely broke or was cut in a kite fight. The kite literally flew by… and H reached out and caught it… and started to fly it. I start to giggle while I’m flying it, this simple nearly translucent red kite, it’s really a lot of fun.

I’m pretty tired and don’t know how long I can remain somewhat lucid.

Ok, router reprogram done, cable repaired, bundle bundle, run down ladder. Run back up ladder - forgot power brick. Run down ladder. Hand off the bundle to SR and H who tries to zip off back to SR’s house, but not before throwing up some cookies. That wasn’t slang, I really mean they were worried about us not eating and drinking and got some cookies and threw them up on to the top of the tower from the ledge. I had returned to help Talwar with his tangle of blue cable and plop, plop,…pause…plop. THOSE ARE FOR YOU MY FRIENDS! GOOD NIGHT!

What can you do but giggle more and marvel? The sun has pretty much completely slipped behind the mountain now and the sky is just fierce layers of purples blues and reds. Cookies (with heart shaped cut outs filled with jam) arc through the darkening sky and land around me. This is weird, right?