Chiang Mai, Siem Reap, Boston

February 5th, 2008

Mary and I returned last night to Boston, a good 28 hours after we left Bangkok. The few days we spent in Chiang Mai were quiet and relaxing after our hard work. We did a walking tour of the city, which included some wats (Buddhist monasteries). There was one really cool wooden one; most are plaster covered. We got a Thai massage at the women’s prison, where the masseuses have been trained and are earning money to use after their release. We also went to several museums in the area. The north is known for it’s ethnic diversity and is quite different than Bangkok. We did some shopping at the Sunday Night Market: many blocks of people selling everything from TV antennas to clothes, food, jewelry and crafts. We also happened upon what appeared to be a children’s dance studio recital.

After a drawn-out overnight bus ride to Bangkok, we flew to Siem Reap, Cambodia. It was great to see another country in Southeast Asia to compare with Thailand. Siem Reap is much less developed than Thailand. I assume most of the country is, as well, because of the Khmer Rouge genocide in the 1970s. One day our driver told us that nearly all the hotels have been built in the last 10 years. There is a major construction boom because the ruins of Angkor are gaining worldwide popularity.

The Angkor Empire was at its peak from about 900-1300, with nearly 1 million inhabitants in the area at the time. All that remain are stone temples and religious buildings, because only buildings for the gods were built in stone. We spent three days exploring the temples in the area; they were three amazing, hot, interesting days. Some of my favorite temples were Neak Pean, a temple with five ponds where pilgrims came to wash in holy water; Ta Phrom, a temple that was overtaken by trees and has not been restored (most other ruins were overrun with trees, but some have been restored);

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Kbal Spean, where the bedrock of the river that feeds Angkor has been carved with religious figures; and Bayon, the main temple of the city of Angkor Thom, which has 216 faces looking down upon the monument and city.

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It was really fun to explore small temples without the hundreds of tourists crowded around the most popular ruins. It was fascinating, too, to see which aspects of the most popular temples draw the tour groups. For example, there were about 500 Japanese tourists gathered in front of a famous bas-relief in the outer gallery of Angkor Wat. We walked about 50 meters to the next carving and there were only 10 people.

The visit to Angkor added another great dimension to the five weeks we were away. After getting back to Bangkok and spending three hours asleep in our hostel, we were back at the airport for our flights home.

The Last Day

January 29th, 2008

We were all lucky to have our tests wrapped up, so Friday we got to spend some time at camp and then return to Mae La to pack and meet with AMI.

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That morning, Mary, Navid and I did a “training” (as Joel calls it) for the supervisors. These are the logs that operate the system on a daily basis, several of whom we worked with over the past three weeks. Patrick translated everything, as not all the logs speak English. We talked about the salt tracer tests we had done in the distribution system and SP-10 filter. We showed some of our results, as well as how the conductivity probe works. Klo Htoo seemed interested to see what a difference the implementation of the baffles had made on the flow in the SP-10 filter.

We also talked briefly about the 3M Petrifilms, which I used for my microbiology testing. They are much easier to use than the current kit they are using in camp now (which requires them to mix their own broths). The results of the microbial test were shared and Joel tied-in which systems are chlorinated (all except SP 14), demonstrating that the chlorination is effective at removing bacterial pollution from the water supply.

We took them some boxes of cake we bought in Mae Sot, and presented Patrick, Klo Htoo and James with some MIT swag (T-shirts and one of those great CEE bags). After the meeting we walked through camp, which was quite nice. It was the first time I had just walked through the main roads without any purpose. It was nice to notice the fruits and vegetables so neatly arranged and the people about doing daily business. Though the people are contained with a fence and have no rights within Thailand, they are safe here and have created a village.

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I shouldn’t say we wandered without any purpose though, because we were looking for some souvenirs. The Karen make beautiful woven and embroidered clothes and we all ended up buying shirts and some other gifts. We ended our walk at the restaurant we ate at everyday (except for two), partaking one last time of the random assortment of posters decorating the walls and the nowhere-level dirt floor.

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After lunch we quickly drove out to Spring 17 to take one last water sample, which I’m bringing back to MIT with me. After leaving our contact information with them for when they reach the U.S., we pulled away from Mae La 2. James, Klo Htoo and Bah Blu (another supervisor) were waving to us and we in return.

Some frenzied packing followed our return to the guesthouse before our final meeting at AMI. Annabelle, Fred, Benoit and Joel all gathered to hear our final thoughts and our goals for the coming months. Surprisingly the meeting ended after only about an hour (unlike the previous Friday when our meeting ran 2.5 hours). AMI was quite pleased to have us, because our work should be quite useful to them. It was a great experience for the three of us as well, because we got to see how a health care/water and sanitation NGO works on the ground.

Some of us met for dinner before Joel took Navid to the bus station, so he could catch his Saturday flight to New Delhi. Mary and I caught a bus this morning to Chiang Mai, a city in northern Thailand. We’re planning on enjoying Thai culture — doing some shopping, taking a cooking class, and enjoying a slower pace of life. Wednesday we head to Siem Reap, Cambodia, to see Angkor Wat. The past weeks have dragged in places, but it’s hard to believe they’re now over. In just over a week we’ll be back in Boston remembering what winter is like!

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Sampling the Water

January 27th, 2008

January 23
Tuesday was my first day back in camp since the Spring 10 Filter had been cleaned. I made the hike up to run a flow test to determine the impact of the baffles on the residence time of the water. At the same time I ran some turbidity tests to see how the filter is functioning with clean media. The Initial NTU was a bit higher than last week, at nearly 40. Fortunately the filter was producing a better effluent than the previous week, at 5 NTU.

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The theoretical residence time of the filter with dry season flow rates is about 90 minutes. Last week the tracer appeared at the outflow after just 25 minutes, indicating short-circuiting of the filter. I got some great data, showing the tracer peak at 95 minutes. As fellow M.Eng. blogger Cash says, “Hooray for science!”

I spent the rest of the afternoon preparing for microbial sampling and set up the lab in Mary’s and my room in the evening.

January 24
Wednesday and Thursday there was a polio vaccination campaign in camp; all the log staff except Klo Htoo were busy doing home visits and other jobs for the day. On Wednesday we started the last of our tasks. In the morning Mary and Navid went out to start the last system they needed to measure and GPS. I spent the time while they were gone taking the conductivity measurements of the samples collected in the Tuesday afternoon flow test they coordinated.

That afternoon, we all hiked the rest of the A Tank system, Mary and Navid long-distance range-finding and GPSing like professionals. At about 2:30 I started collecting water samples, first in the SP-10 filter and then at some taps in the system after the 3 o’clock distribution began. Mary and Navid finished data collection for all the systems they set out to, which was a huge task and involved many hours of climbing around the camp.

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I spent Wednesday night with a cooler full of samples. I had a lot of fun pipetting in our room that night and put the samples in the incubator to cook for the required 24 hours.

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Thursday we aimed to do a half-day in camp, which really means getting home two hours earlier than usual (so more like a 3/4 day). Fortunately Mary and Navid were able to help me run my final flow test on the SP-10 filter. Since it’s the dry season, the turbidities right now are not representative of the much higher spikes seen in the rainy season. I asked Mary and Navid to simulate higher turbidities by stirring the water at the collection basin located at a higher elevation than the filter. They stirred the water and took turbidity measurements at two locataions so that I can map the spikes through the system. Klo Htoo took turbidity measurements at the inflow and outflow of the filter. During this high turbidity block I ran one final flow test to confirm previous results. The data wasn’t as clean as on Tuesday, which could be a result of the order of magnitude spike in turbidity, but still showed a residence time for the filter of around 90 minutes. The data show that the baffles are successfully increasing the amount of time water is in the system. Time will only tell if this means the filter needs to be cleaned less often and other impacts of this change.

Thursday night I got to pull the petrifilms out of the incubator and see the results of the test. The first set of samples were from chlorinated taps and tanks so all the gels were blank. I was a bit worried something had gone wrong and I had to wait several hours until the rest of the samples were ready. Happily I got to count both E.coli and total coliform in samples in the second batch (although this is unfortunate because of the implications of that contamination). The water in the SP-10 filter is contaminated and the filter removed about half the organisms. The water is chlorinated after the filter, though, so the sample from a SP-10 tap was clean. The only other location in the system that had measureable organisms was the SP-14 tank.

The Test

January 24th, 2008

Mary Harding Reporting
On Monday, Navid and I prepped most of the day at the camp for our system-wide test the following day. Our big lesson of the weekend: having a personal shopper is sweet (see previous entry). Unfortunately, even the best personal shoppers can run into poor information from sellers. It turned out that each packet of salt we bought actually weighed 580 grams instead of the 1,000 grams we were expecting. We were able to buy some more salt in the camp and did some tests and calculations to determine that some dilution from the original amounts would still work.

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In the afternoon we explained the test to 18 people—two of whom could speak English—who would be collecting samples. Thanks to Patrick’s and Klo H’too’s translation, things went smoothly and we left feeling fairly confident about the procedure for the morning.

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Since the taps open at 6 a.m. in the camp and the drive from our guesthouse is about an hour, Navid and I got permission from the camp commander to spend the night in the camp. The AMI accommodations were better than I expected, with two small bedrooms, private latrine, small kitchen and working lights. I think the highlight of the adventure was playing soccer with 10 year olds until it was too dark to see or maybe being up before the sun and watching the camp come to life. The “lowlight” would have to be the giant spider we spotted in the main room, thankfully outside the protective netting.

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We were able to visit some of the tap stands in the morning where the collections were happening and get measurements with our pressure gauge. We learned a lot about the unpredictability of the system; one of the test taps didn’t end up getting water until 8 a.m. (two hours late!), because of a break in the line that happened overnight. When asked about other variations in delayed or extra water, we found out that children often play with valves. This affects flow.

In the afternoon, Navid and I were stationed at B tank and got to open the system for the afternoon flow. With a switch of one valve, a whole subset of the camp gets access to clean, safe drinking water.

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Saturday errands

January 19th, 2008

The Internet has been out at the hotel for 48 hours, so I find myself spending Saturday afternoon at an Internet cafe. This morning we met an AMI purchaser and driver to go shopping for some supplies Mary and Navid need. It was great to have a personal shopper who spoke Thai and enough English to get us to all the places we needed to go. Finding 90 kg of salt proved a little difficult, but we found everything they needed after a few stops.

Mary and Navid are going to wrap up data collection on the pipe lengths and locations early next week. We are planning to run tracer tests — mine in the newly cleaned SP-10 filter and theirs in the pipe systems for each tank.

That’s all for now, perhaps now home for a nap before the Ultimate Frisbee game.

A Steep Climb

January 17th, 2008

Monday we dove into data collection as Mary reported. I walked to Spring 10 (SP-10) with Klo Htoo (age 39), the spring coordinator, and James (age 63), a water supply shopkeeper. Klo Htoo speaks a little technical English, while James has a much larger vocabulary, so he serves as translator. They both learned English in school in Burma. James is hoping to move to Australia and is awaiting a visa. On Monday afternoon the three of us headed up to SP-10. It’s quite a hike, because the source is in the cliffs that run high along the camp. Navid doesn’t like the hike, and I agree it isn’t the easiest place to get to. The path is narrow and really muddy and slippery. I can’t imagine it in the rainy season.

On our way up, Klo Htoo stopped at a tobacco shop while James and I kept walking. I started to wonder if we’d gone too far, but shortly we stopped to wait for Klo Htoo. He didn’t come, so we retraced our steps, stopping at various shops to inquire if anyone had seen a guy in a red hat, but to no avail. Eventually we had to go all the way back to Mae La 2, the base of the logistic team, to find someone who knew where SP-10 is. About three-fourths of the way up, we found Klo Htoo on his way back down, walkie-talkie blaring about where we were. We all had a good laugh when we found him. I just have to remember that the shopkeeper doesn’t know the way to the springs at the top of the village.

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SP-10 has two small filters that are useless because of the size of the filter media. Our turbidity measurements demonstrated this quantitatively; the turbidity in the water didn’t change from the source to the inflow of the main filter. The main filter is quite dirty and a little low on media, but is still reducing the turbidity from 30 NTU to 15 NTU.

When we finally made it to SP-10 filter, we ran a tracer test to determine the residence time of water in the system. I thought the filter was prone to short-circuiting, which seems to be the case based on the data. The theoretical residence time of the filter is on the order of hours, while the tracer appeared in just over 30 minutes. Some of the logistic team set to work cleaning the filter yesterday and will continue that work through Friday. It takes four days for about six men to manually clean and replace all the gravel media.

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Wednesday we spent about half an hour at the filter, most of it reiterating how to construct the baffling so that the flow is more directed. I feel like our message was conveyed correctly, but we’ll be checking in tomorrow morning to see. Next week we’re going to modify one of the useless smaller filters to see if the combination of a clean main filter and variation of the collection-box filter can reduce the turbidity. We’ll also artificially create the rainy season turbidity of about 200 NTU. Finally, we’ll conduct another tracer test to determine quantitatively if the average residence time of water in the filter increases as a result of the baffles.

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SP-10 is one of the higher springs in the system and has a large catchment area. The path we climb to reach the filter and collection basins is also one of the paths people take to cross into Burma. On Monday, a man with a gun passed by the filter, but James assured me he was only going hunting. Moving to and from Burma is quite difficult. Patrick told us that he spent one month walking from his home in Burma to the camp when he moved here less than two years ago. He traveled with only dry food and only moved at night. Once he reached the river he was taken across in a boat, and then walked the rest of the way. His story reminded me of the tales of the Underground Railroad I studied years ago.

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The first day we went to Mae La, Pete said it was like going from the 21st century (Bangkok, a very modern city) to the 20th century (Mae Sot, a slow moving border town with more bicycles than cars) to the 19th century (Mae La, where the alleys smell of sewage and daily life is completely different from Bangkok or Boston). No wonder the children who come to the Rujira on their way to another country stand and stare at the street, where cars, motorcycles, tuk-tuks, and bicycles fly by at lightning speed compared to anything they’ve seen in Mae La.

People in the Camp

January 16th, 2008

AMI is one of several NGOs that work in some capacity in the camp, providing food, medical care, education, migration and support to the disabled. AMI has about 10 ex-pats supervising about 250 refugees who work in a variety of positions. The two positions that come to mind are medical care and water logistics. On the Karen New Year (8 Jan), one of the supervisors bought everyone new shirts. We were fortunate to receive shirts, as well. Here is a picture of the AMI Logistics team, including Annabelle and Joel, two of the ex-pats, taken on the holiday. The majority of the log team wears an AMI hat or shirt every day.
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The people in the camp have two main hopes for the future: return to Burma (if and when their rights are recognized) or move legally to another country. Eight countries have initiated large repatriation programs, including the USA, Canada, Australia, England and Norway. Last year 8,000 people moved to the USA alone. Repatriation is a long process that begins in the camp with an application and interview. The International Organization for Migration oversees many of the programs, particularly the one for the USA. The US Department of Homeland Security is only involved with some of the later interviews, but none of the logistics of moving people from Mae La to the United States, nor the early organizational phases or cultural orientations.

At least some of the people selected for repatriation are moved out of Mae La before moving to their new country. One place they come for further orientation is the guesthouse where we are staying. There is a large room, like a gymnasium, where they sleep and listen to speakers. They also come and go from the guesthouse in Sawngthaews or “truck buses” as I like to call them, because they are pick-up trucks with two benches running along the bed. I’m not sure how long any of the phases of repatriation take, but the process can be as quick as six months or as long as several years.

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Before any of the official applications begin, families decide to which countries they would like to apply. There are many rumors within the camp about each of the countries; in particular we’ve heard rumors about the US. We’ve been talking to Patrick, one of the water system supervisors, at lunch about some of the rumors. He says many people take extra clothes with them, because they’ve heard that there aren’t small sizes in the US. He asked us about bringing seeds into the US, since he hopes to repatriate there with his favorite medicinal plant.

In the camp there are bulletin boards with photos showing life in the US. They show Burmese in apartments, girls playing sports, ice hockey games, and snow. One board is devoted to Muslim life in the US. This particularly is an issue, because some Muslims in the camp think that Muslims have to hide their faith if they live in the US.

Blew out my flip-flop: Life in Mae La

January 15th, 2008

I often wake up wondering where the fire is, a thought triggered by the smell of cooking fires from the homes of migrant workers near our guesthouse in Mae Sot. On the days we go to the field in Mae La, we’re up at 6 or 7 a.m. in order to be ready to be picked up at 8 by a driver from AMI. Often in the morning there’s a haze over the camp, which burns off as the day nears noon. During the morning, the camp also smells of smoke from cooking fires and people burning trash. Even if some people burn a small amount of trash, this is by no means a good solution to refuse disposal in the camp. Papers litter the streets and paths behind houses. Discarded clothes and flip-flops are common sights. Everyone wears sandals; I don’t think I’ve seen a pair of shoes in camp. Today, in fact, Patrick blew out his flip-flop walking one of the pipelines with Navid.

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By the time we arrive at 9 a.m, the morning water distribution (6-9 a.m.) is over. The tap stands are surrounded by mud and the line of jerry cans has disappeared. They’ll reappear for the second release of water from 3-6 p.m. These are the only hours of public distribution of chlorinated drinking water, so a line of people and storage vessels always forms before the distribution begins. Toward the end of the distribution, when people have filled all their storage containers, some people bathe or wash clothes at the tap stands.

Following the pipes through the village—under houses, into fenced-off yards, through muddy streams—leads to a very different view of life in the camp. Pig pens, puppies, chickens, and onlookers abound. Anytime we stop, a crowd of 5-20 gathers around us (Navid, Mary, Patrick, Klo Htoo and me). Around the village, it’s always busier in the morning, before the temperature soars to above 90. As the day wears on, we hear TVs in a few houses and guitars in others. Shades are drawn in the mid-afternoon sun and when VIP Thai visitors are coming into the camp. At these times, the entire atmosphere changes; shops close and people scurry into alleys and homes as Thai soldiers with M-16s take up posts throughout the camp.

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There are definitely lines of wealth here. Some people arrived with more money or have profited from the black market in the camp. There are a fair number of motor bikes, but nowhere near as many as on the road in Mae Sot or elsewhere in Thailand. Today I saw one photovoltaic providing power to a residential building. There are electric lines running through part of the camp, but I have yet to find out what the power source is and who can use the lines (for instance, to run a TV).

Our day in camp ends at 4 p.m., because the AMI drivers end their days at 5. Around that time, the Logistics office sees a steady stream of workers coming back in from their workday, as well.

Food
We eat breakfast at our hotel, where there’s always toast, coffee and tea, and a case of changing items with a variety of fruits (watermelon, dragon fruit, bananas, oranges), coffee cakes, pizza, steamed coconut, garlic bread, mushy papaya with coconut on top, and other unidentified items.

When we’re in Mae La, we eat lunch at one of two restaurants in the camp. There aren’t many choices for dishes, so we often end up getting chicken fried rice, Thai style noodles (Phat Thai), Burmese style noodles, or Pho Ka Pou (chicken, green beans, basil and chilis over rice). The spiciness of Pho Ka Pou varies; without chilis it’s totally edible, but with chilis is your own best guess. Once Navid got a plate so spicy he couldn’t eat more than half of it.

For dinner we’re fortunate to have a variety of choices in Mae Sot due to the appetites of the many ex-pats. We’ve been to six restaurants and have two more recommendations to explore. We’ve been to most of them multiple times and we’re beginning to know who has the best pizza, pasta, Thai, Burmese, burger, dessert and juice. When we’re sick from something, it’s nice to know plain and familiar dishes await at a variety of places. Of all the dishes I’ve had since coming, I’d say the curries are best, except for the Burmese tea leaf salad. It has tomatoes, tea leaves, peanuts, and garlic in oil (and other things I can’t recall right now).

In other news
Pete left Monday morning and is now somewhere over the Pacific Ocean on his way to Minneapolis. He’s going from 80 degrees to 8 degrees. So far we’ve survived two days without him, but there are still eight more work days…

Getting to know you, pipes

January 13th, 2008

kat-mary.jpgMary Harding reports for Kat today

We’ve really started to sink our teeth into data collection now and have the ripped, dirty clothes and smudged data sheets to prove it. Navid and I completed about a day and a half of serious distribution system scouring: recording the location of every pipe intersection, change in pipe diameter, and every valve and tap. Local kids are really getting a kick out of our laser range finder, which could be construed to be a sweet pair of spy goggles with an X-ray button. (In reality it’s saving us a lot of time with a measuring tape, especially when distances are upwards of 150 meters.) We’ve done some flow tests and stood around taps and timed people filling their buckets as well.

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It was nice to get a little break this weekend and explore the town of Mae Sot. On Saturday afternoon we got together with a fairly large group of ex-pats (about 30 of them) for an energized game of ultimate Frisbee. Pete was right there in the action with us, and after a streak of two assists and a goal midway through, he decided to retire on a high note. It’s great to see that the people working in the various NGOs in the area are able to create community and enjoy being together. It was nice to get in a good run, too. I tried, but could not find an ice rink for miles. I play hockey about seven times a week at MIT.

Getting down to business

January 11th, 2008

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After being inundated with information for 2.5 days, we spent Wednesday afternoon gathering our thoughts about what we need to accomplish while we’re here. On Thursday, Navid, Mary, and Pete went back in the field to collect the first data of the trip. They recorded GPS coordinates for the pipe junctions in a small fraction of the system. It’s a time-consuming process because the density of buildings is high and pipes run under homes, are sometimes buried, or are otherwise hidden.

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My project has been redefined based on what we learned this week. AMI already has a roughing filter of sorts at the most turbid of the springs. Our new plan is that I will present a basic filter design that could be modified for use at some or all of the springs. In addition, they’re considering making their emergency storage pond the main storage for the system. I’ll be specifying treatment processes they could add for use on the stored water before sending it into the distribution system.

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Next week I’m going to run a tracer test on the existing roughing filter to determine the residence time of water in the filter. Then I’m going to help them clean out the filter and modify it by adding some baffling to direct water flow. The way the filter is constructed now may be causing some short-circuiting. I’m hopeful that adding baffles will make the filter more effective by requiring the water to travel through more of the filter media. I’ll follow up with several tracer studies to see how the residence time changes over the next week. That’s the plan for now, I’ll let you know what actually happens!